Brutalised and forgotten Sri Lankan cinnamon peelers recognised in new research Dilhani Dissanayake wants everyone to know a cinnamon peeler is actually a person and not a tool. Key points: Cinnamon comes from the inner bark of a tree and is a spice native to Sri Lanka Peelers have performed the labour-intensive task of skilfully peeling the spice, historically under brutal slave-like conditions Cinnamon is now grown in many parts of Asia and in other tropical climates She has been so passionate about her own cultural history she completed her PhD thesis on the history of the cinnamon peelers in Sri Lanka. Dr Dissanayake says the popular spice is native to Sri Lanka and is part of the country's cultural identity. "It's come to represent Sri Lankan culture and its people's identity," she said. A person and not a tool Dr Dissanayake said cinnamon began being used in Sri Lanka as a traditional Ayurvedic medicine before it was used as a spice. It has been harvested for centuries by peeling the inner bark of several trees of the same species and then processed as quills or powder. Dr Dissanayake's thesis explores this history with a particular emphasis on the often neglected figure of the cinnamon peeler. "No-one talks about the hardships and the sacrifices the peelers made to get that product to market," she said. "Cinnamon peelers were among the agents who expanded Sri Lankan culture beyond the island's shores." The peelers have been an intrinsic part of the labour-intensive processes for centuries with the skills often passed on between generations. Sri Lankan Ceylon cinnamon is considered the "true" cinnamon.(Supplied: Dilhani Dissanayake) Dr Dissanayake said on average it took about five to seven years to perfect the skill of peeling cinnamon. "The peeling process is really intensive and relies on local knowledge, expert skills, dexterity and patience," she said. During Sri Lanka's pre and colonial era, peelers were from the Sinhalese Salagama caste. When the country came under Dutch rule in the mid-1600s, after seizing control from the Portuguese, the Dutch took control of the prized spice by commercialising the industry through the creation of plantations and often brutalised workers. "They had their ears cut off and were confined in chains and also whipped and branded," Dr Dissanayake said. Popular spice has lesser known history Dr Dissanayake said she was at a Bendigo-based event where local Indian people were speaking about their culinary culture when an Australian friend asked her whether cinnamon was a seed, fruit or flower. "I was shocked to hear my friend knew nothing about it, although it is tasted in many foods, like donuts, cereals and curries," Dr Dissanayake said. The experience inspired Dr Dissanayake to pursue her PhD at La Trobe University in the history of the cinnamon peelers. Dr Dissanayake wrote her PhD on the history of cinnamon peelers.(Supplied: Dilhani Dissanayake) Dr Dissanayake and her husband first came to Bendigo so she could study a Masters in community planning and development seven years ago. "I really didn't know anything about Bendigo, we didn't have any friends here, no relative, and here we were in this strange climate," she said. "Now I know lots of people and I'm really glad we are here. "To be somewhere where the same people greet us every day, that makes it feel homely." World's largest exporter Whereas Sri Lanka once monopolised the trade of cinnamon, it has become only the fourth largest producer globally, but has remained the world's largest exporter of the popular spice. Cinnamon is now grown in many parts of Asia and other tropical climates, with Indonesia now the world's largest cinnamon producer. Dr Dissanayake said there were two types of commercial cinnamon; Ceylon cinnamon, which was native to Sri Lanka, and the cheaper cassia cinnamon, primarily produced in Indonesia. "Sri Lanka has the true cinnamon," she said. Dr Dissanayake said today workers continue to manually peel cinnamon, despite attempts by government to mechanise the process with machines. S'pore, Sri Lanka explore ways to further deepen trade ties The Covid-19 pandemic will create opportunities for Singapore and Sri Lanka to deepen trade ties, with agri-business and digitalisation singled out for particular focus during a webinar on Monday. Addressing the webinar, Singapore's High Commissioner to Sri Lanka, Mr S. Chandra Das, spoke of new opportunities despite the fact that Covid-19 has been "a very tiring period both (for) diplomatic and business cooperation". "New ideas will continue to multiply as we move to reopen our economies and societies. Covid-19 (will) spur us to re-imagine the possibilities and grab hold of new opportunities," he said. Mr Chandra Das added: "Singapore and Sri Lanka have a longstanding trade relationship, particularly (in) the area of food." "Our import of Sri Lankan produce has grown, both in quantity and variety, from cayenne spices to crabs," he said. Sri Lankan High Commissioner to Singapore Sashikala Premawardhane said food security was among the areas in which the two countries could deepen cooperation. "We've done very well on the investment side between 2015 and 2019," she said, pointing out that Singapore was Sri Lanka's fifth-largest investor. About 100 Singaporean businesses were operating in Sri Lanka, she added. "We see huge opportunities for the two countries to... augment ties, particularly in the economic, trade and investment fields," she said. Covid-19 has highlighted the importance for countries to keep in touch at a time when borders remain closed and supply chains have been disrupted, to ensure that food security issues do not hinder economic activities, she said. Singapore produces less than 10 per cent of its nutritional needs locally. The webinar on business opportunities, particularly in areas such as digitalisation and agri-business, was held on the 50th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic ties between Singapore and Sri Lanka. Mr Chandra Das said: "The friendly relations between our two countries enjoyed today are founded on historical events, even familial ties, established long before our independence." A statement from the Sri Lanka High Commission in Singapore noted that ties between the two countries go back to at least the 1800s, given that both share the same ancient maritime trade routes. Topics covered during the webinar included digitalisation of businesses, food supply resilience in Singapore and food security. Total bilateral trade last year was valued at US$883 million (S$1.2 billion), with Sri Lankan exports valued at US$115 million, according to the Sri Lanka High Commission. Sri Lankan cinnamon Dilhani Dissanayake wants everyone to know a cinnamon peeler is actually a person and not a tool. She has been so passionate about her own cultural history she completed her PhD thesis on the history of the cinnamon peelers in Sri Lanka. Dr. Dissanayake says the popular spice is native to Sri Lanka and is part of the country's cultural identity. “It's come to represent Sri Lankan culture and its people's identity,” she said. Dr. Dissanayake said cinnamon was being used in Sri Lanka as a traditional Ayurvedic medicine before it was used as a spice. It has been harvested for centuries by peeling the inner bark of several trees of the same species and then processed as quills or powder. Dr. Dissanayake's thesis explores this history with a particular emphasis on the often neglected figure of the cinnamon peeler. “No-one talks about the hardships and the sacrifices the peelers made to get that product to market,” she said. The peelers have been an intrinsic part of the labour-intensive processes for centuries with the skills often passed on between generations. Dr. Dissanayake said on average it took about five to seven years to perfect the skill of peeling cinnamon. “The peeling process is really intensive and relies on local knowledge, expert skills, dexterity and patience,” she said. During Sri Lanka's pre and colonial era, peelers were from the lowest Sinhalese Salagama caste. When the country came under Dutch rule in the mid-1600s, after seizing control from the Portuguese, the Dutch took control of the prized spice by commercialising the industry through the creation of plantations and often brutalised workers. Dr. Dissanayake said she was at a Bendigo-based event where local Indian people were speaking about their culinary culture when an Australian friend asked her whether cinnamon was a seed, fruit or flower. “I was shocked to hear my friend knew nothing about it, although it is tasted in many foods, like donuts, cereals and curries,” Dr. Dissanayake said. The experience inspired Dr. Dissanayake to pursue her PhD at La Trobe University in the history of the cinnamon peelers. Dr. Dissanayake and her husband first came to Bendigo so she could study a Master of community planning and development seven years ago. “I really didn't know anything about Bendigo, we didn't have any friends here, no relatives, and here we were in this strange climate,” she said. “Now I know lots of people and I'm really glad we are here. Whereas Sri Lanka once monopolised the trade of cinnamon, it has become only the fourth largest producer globally, but has remained the world's largest exporter of the popular spice. Cinnamon is now grown in many parts of Asia and other tropical climates, with Indonesia now the world's largest cinnamon producer. Dr. Dissanayake said there were two types of commercial cinnamon; Ceylon cinnamon, which was native to Sri Lanka, and the cheaper cassia cinnamon, primarily produced in Indonesia. Dr. Dissanayake said today workers continue to manually peel cinnamon, despite attempts by the Government to mechanise the process with machines. (ABC Australia)
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